Vibrant interiors at Belton House

Despite the grey clouds below we stopped off at Belton House when we were staying close by last August - not quite the day we hoped for, but visiting somewhere with space indoors was a popular choice. It’s not a house I was familiar with, and we hadn’t visited before but it was clear that it was a popular place.

The exterior of Belton House

It’s a pretty impressive house, and the family - generations of Brownlows - commissioned the finest designers and craftsmen to deliver what is now a National Trust property. The house and gardens showcase cutting edge design and innovation including 17th century sash windows and a glorious cast iron-framed orangery which I’ll share in a future post.

Our visit started in the large and grand hall, with a vibrant carpet up the stairs and the classic chequerboard patterned floor. The suitcases discarded on the stairs gave an indication of the character of the place, and under the stairs - and not quite like the under the stairs storage that we’re more familiar with - was one of the first stunning pieces of furniture, an ornate laquered chest.

red patterned stair carpet, wooden stairs and wooden half panelling with cream and gold edged panelling above
chequerboard floor in the hall, with stairs diagonally in the background with a gold wave pattern a bust on a marble plinth in the corner of where the stairs turned with a black and gold ornate chest under the stairs

I was also rather taken with this very ornate writing desk, and I know it’s the many compartments and sections that are part of the appeal. But also it’s the scale and how it fits with its surroundings. Clearly it’s larger than standard furniture, but oh so stunning.

An ornate mahogany writing desk with a green striped upholstered chair in a half panelled room - wood and majority green flower patterned wallpaper

But it wasn’t the only jewel in the room, this restored lapis lazuli cabinet which was brought back from a Grand Tour over 300 years ago. Isn’t it stunning?

A vivid blue ornate chest on a gilt table against a wall with panelling and green ornate flowered wallpaper

It wasn’t the only cabinet, or fireplace, or collection of vases that caught my eye and intrigued me.

On the left of the image a dark wood piece of furniture inlaid with vivid red detail, on the right handside an ornate marble fireplace with brass grate and brushed metal surround
A marble fireplace with lamps either side and blue/white vases on the mantelpiece. Wood panelling on the lower section with vibrant red patterned wallpaper in the panels above.
A chequerboard floor with a gilt table, the 'legs' are greyhounds. The table top is green possibly onyx, on the top 3 large blue/white urns, a partial portrait hangs behind the table. On either side there are brown marble plinths with blue vases

And it seems that greyhounds were a bit of a thing for the family too - the table above, the doorplate below and outside on the weather vane.

A brass door plate with keyhole and handle depicting a greyhound and swirls on a wooden door.
A tapestry hanging on the wall in the background. In the foreground an ornate lamp with a cream shade

Like many National Trust properties the rooms are vibrantly decorated, these rooms though remain vibrant I’m sure through recent restoration - the reds, golds and greens are very rich and point to a lavish and indulgent lifestyle.

red wallpapered panelled sections with portraits in the drawing room, with wallpapers and curtains i nthe same pattern and an ornate (and large) carpet
a mahogany dining table (seating 12) with a vibrant green and gold decor in the background - a gold light fitting hangs and a portrait with a gold phoenix above the marble fireplace
in the green & gold dining room looking at the otherside of the table, with a rug and route through to the next room

Definitely ornate, and quite over the top - but I guess if you had money, and this family did, it was the done thing to show that for your standing in society. In some ways that’s not so different from today, whether we agree with it or not. The house, and its gardens, are definitely worth a visit - there’s so much to do, and so much to see.

Where do you find peace?

That was the question that faced us as we started a walk around the lake at Stourhead when we visited at the end of last October, and it definitely made us stop and think. I mean look at that view, I think that alone was influencing our answer! But it’s true, isn’t it, in nature often brings peace - my usual answer would most likely have been Greenwich Park, had I not been standing in this exact spot.

A sign shaped as an oak leaf with the words 'where do you find peace?' in front of the Lake at Stourhead

WHERE DO YOU FIND PEACE?

I’m very much a take in your surroundings kind of walker, with occasional pauses to take it all in. This can frustrate MOH who likes to walk to get there, at a much quicker pace than I. But at times I can get him to stop and take stock of the views, and just as well as otherwise I might have missed the urn hidden amongst the greenery.

Looking down through bushes to the lake with an urn-like sculpture on the water's edge partially obscured

With paths leading invitingly off the main route, we left this one for another visit on another day.

A brick path, stepped leading to who knows where, the lake in the distance
a closeup of a red acer bush

Our visit was full of autumn colours, and spotting further excerpts along the way was a genius touch.

A quote stamped into an iron plaque mounted on a wooden board (which looks like a floorboard)

AND ROUND ABOUT SOFT MEADOWS OF
VIOLETS AND PARSLEY WERE BLOOMING.
THERE EVEN AN IMMORTAL, WHO CHANCED
TO COME, MIGHT GAZE AND MARVEL,
AND DELIGHT HIS SOUL…
ODYSSEY, HOMER

yellow, golden autumnal fern leaves in the foreground

It introduced me to poems I’d not read before, though I’m sure many have and they are well known and much loved.

a quote etched on glass in a wooden frame/stand in front of the lake

NOT DISTANT FAR FROM THENCE A MURMURING SOUND
OF WATERS ISSU’D FROM A CAVE AND SPREAD
INTO A LIQUID PLAN, THEN STOOD UNMOV’D
PURE AS TH’ EXPANSE OF HEAV’N, I THITHER WENT
WITH UNEXPERIENC’T THOUGHT, AND LAID ME DOWNE
ON THE GREEN BANK, TO LOOK INTO THE CLEER SMOOTH LAKE,
THAT TO ME SEEMD ANOTHER SKIE.
PARADISE LOST, JOHN MILTON

tall trees against a blue sky

As you can see from the photos, we were really lucky with the weather and it was a real treat to capture the sunlight on the trees and enjoy the blue skies.

a usual view of stourhead with the arched bridge over the lake autumnal colours with the sun shining
a quote punched into an iron plaque mounted on a wooden post

NOTHING IN ENGLAND COULD COMPARE
WITH STOURHEAD… WE WERE IN SUCH
ECSTASY WE HAD THE UTMOST
DIFFICULTY IN TEARING OURSELVES AWAY
FROM THIS CHARMING SPOT…
BARON VAN SPAEN VAN BILJOEN, 1791

Looking back towards the lake and the arched bridge in the centre of the picture with trees around the lake

We made it round the lake, with plenty of stops for photos and to take in the views and much more - at some point I’ll share more from our short stop off at Stourhead, which is always a welcome stop as we head to Devon to visit family - and yes, I know it’s not the most direct route, but with views like this that’s not such a bad thing, is it?

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The Library at Greenway

It was great to head down to Devon last weekend to see family. Family that we’d not seen since before lockdown - we were due to visit in April 2020, but clearly that didn’t happen. When we’re there we have a few favourite National Trust properties which we visit in turn. On this visit we headed over to Greenway, Agatha Christie’s holiday home in Brixham. It’s a great house, and the gardens are pretty spectacular too.

Today I’m sharing pictures from the library, and unusually there’s relatively few books in my photos.

During the Second World War Greenway was requisitioned by the US Coast Guard and one of the men stationed there left ‘a unique momento’ in the Library. It’s not the first time I’ve seen the frieze, but it’s something that doesn’t disappoint on any visit.

The freeze is on all four walls and there’s 13 murals in what was the ‘mess room’ with a bar set up in the alcove. The murals are painted using just four colours - blue, khaki, black and white and shows incidents that occurred during their eleven months’ journey to Greenway.

When the house was decommissioned and returned to Agatha Christie, she was pleased to see that little damage had been done but was “somewhat surprises to find the graffiti left in the library.”

The commander wrote offering to have ‘the fresco’ painted out and, as her autobiography records, she quickly wrote back that “it would be an historic memorial” that she was delighted to have.

It’s really quite special, so if you’re in the area it’s definitely worth a visit. But make sure to book your parking in advance.

PoCoLo